A different philosophy of water care
The conventional hot tub industry is built on a reactive model. Water gets contaminated, chemicals kill the contamination, balance is restored. The assumption running beneath all of it is that the system will always be fighting bacteria rather than preventing the conditions that allow it to thrive.
This approach demands more chemical input than it needs to, produces byproducts like bromamines that irritate skin and eyes, and creates a cycle where out-of-balance water requires increasingly aggressive intervention to recover. It is not the only way to manage water. It is simply the default that developed around the infrastructure of a conventional spa.
An AlumiTub is structurally different. The smooth, non-porous aluminium interior has no jets, no pipework, and no hidden cavities where bacteria can establish. The simpler the design, the lower the baseline contamination risk, and the less chemical management the water needs to stay clean.
The Good Clean Living approach takes this further. Rather than reacting to problems after they occur, it is built around preventing them from developing in the first place: purifying water at source before it enters the tub, conditioning it monthly to reduce organic load, and using bromine as a precision safeguard rather than a primary treatment. When water balance is maintained consistently, bromine is needed in small, stable amounts. When water goes out of range or turns cloudy, recovering it requires significantly more chemical intervention. The case for prevention is practical, not just philosophical.
Start clean. Stay balanced. Use less.
Your first fills: understanding cedar tannins
New AlumiTubs require a specific approach for the first several fills that differs from ongoing maintenance. The Canadian Western Red Cedar exterior naturally releases tannins into the water, which causes the water to appear brown. This is normal, expected, and not a hygiene concern. The water is safe to soak in during this period.
Tannins dissipate fully after approximately four water replacements. During this initial period:
- Do not add chemical treatments to the water. Treating water that contains tannins risks causing the tannins to bond with the aluminium interior surface and leave a stain that is difficult to remove
- Do not let the water stand for more than seven to ten days before a full change
- Simply fill, soak, and drain. Repeat until the water runs clear
Once the tannins have dissipated, the tub is ready for its full maintenance routine and chemical treatments can be introduced as needed. This is not a long process: most owners complete the tannin-clearing period within the first few weeks of use.
Water parameters and what they mean
Hot tub water has four parameters that need to stay within defined ranges for the water to be safe, comfortable, and kind to the tub's materials. Testing these regularly is the foundation of all water care. Understanding what each one does makes testing easier to act on.
|
Parameter |
Target range |
Why it matters |
What happens if it drifts |
|
Alkalinity |
80 to 120 ppm |
Acts as a buffer, stabilizing pH and preventing rapid swings |
Low alkalinity causes pH to fluctuate erratically. High alkalinity makes pH hard to adjust |
|
pH |
7.2 to 8.2 |
Controls sanitizer effectiveness and bather comfort |
Low pH irritates skin and eyes, corrodes equipment. High pH makes sanitizer ineffective |
|
Total Hardness |
100 to 250 ppm |
Protects surfaces and components from corrosion or scaling |
Low hardness is corrosive to aluminium and fittings. High hardness causes scale buildup |
|
Bromine |
2 to 3 ppm |
Sanitizes the water by destroying bacteria and organic contaminants |
Below 2 ppm leaves water unprotected. Above 3 ppm can irritate skin. Bromine can fall to zero before use, so always retest |
These four parameters interact with each other and apply to Wood Fired Hot Tubs, Electric and Hybrid. Alkalinity affects how stable the pH is. pH affects how effectively bromine works. This is why the balancing sequence matters: adjust in the wrong order and each correction can undo the previous one.
How to test and balance your water
Testing frequency
For regular use, test the water two to three times per week. For periodic or occasional use, test before each session. Testing takes under a minute and is the single most effective thing you can do to stay ahead of water problems.
Always retest before soaking even if you tested recently. Bromine in particular can dissipate to zero between sessions without any visible change in the water. A reading of zero means the water is unprotected regardless of how balanced the other parameters are.
The balancing sequence
Always adjust parameters in this order. Each one affects the next, so sequencing correctly prevents compounding corrections.
- Alkalinity first. If alkalinity is outside 80 to 120 ppm, adjust it before touching anything else. Use an alkalinity increaser or decreaser as needed. Municipal tap water is often already within range but should still be confirmed. Run the pump for fifteen to twenty minutes after adding any chemical and retest before moving on
- pH second. Once alkalinity is stable, adjust pH to sit between 7.2 and 8.2. Most tubs require occasional pH-up to maintain the right level. Well water often arrives at a higher pH and may need downward adjustment. Add chemicals gradually, circulate, and retest
- Total hardness third. If hardness is below 100 ppm, add a calcium hardness increaser to bring it into the 100 to 250 ppm range. The Good Clean Living Calcium Balancer raises hardness by approximately 10 ppm per 500 gallons per two tablespoons added. Repeat as needed until in range
- Bromine last. Once the other parameters are balanced, test bromine and dose as needed to reach 2 to 3 ppm. Use granulated bromine or a floating bromine tablet dispenser. Run the pump for fifteen to twenty minutes after dosing and retest before soaking
Consistent maintenance within these ranges is the most effective way to reduce the amount of bromine the water needs. Well-balanced water uses bromine efficiently. Out-of-balance or cloudy water requires significantly higher doses to recover, and the cost is paid in chemical exposure, water quality, and time.
The Good Clean Living treatment plan
The Good Clean Living line is designed around a preventative model: reduce the problem load before it builds, stabilize conditions naturally, and use sanitizer as a precision tool rather than a primary defence.
At source, before filling
The Purifier attaches to a garden hose before the tub is filled. Using activated charcoal and an advanced KDF process, it removes heavy metals, chlorine from municipal supplies, fluoride, hydrogen sulfide, trace chemicals, and VOCs before the water enters the tub. Starting with cleaner water reduces the chemical demand from the first fill and is the first step in the preventative sequence.
Monthly
The Stabilizer is added to the water once a month after use. This enzyme-driven biological conditioning treatment reduces organic load in the water, stabilizes pH and alkalinity, and lowers the amount of sanitizer needed to maintain safe chemistry. Add one bottle monthly and run the pump for fifteen to twenty minutes to distribute it fully. This is the core engine of the Good Clean Living system: by reducing the organic load that sanitizer would otherwise have to deal with, it keeps the water cleaner with less bromine.
Filter care
The filter canister should be checked weekly. If the filter is visibly soiled, it needs cleaning rather than just rinsing. The Filter Cleanser provides a mineral-based deep cleanse: add two capfuls to a bucket of water, soak the filter for two hours or overnight depending on the degree of soiling, then rinse and return it to service. Use this every two weeks as part of the maintenance routine. Filter steps don't apply to wood burning hot tubs without the filtration add-on.
Between full cleans, The Filter Booster supports ongoing filter hygiene. Add two capfuls directly to the filter canister monthly. It uses baking soda and natural enzymes to condition the filter between deep cleans, extending its effective lifespan.
Having a spare filter on hand makes maintenance easier: swap in the clean filter while the other soaks, so the tub is never out of service during filter cleaning.
Every three to four months: full water change
With regular balancing and monthly conditioning, a full water change is needed approximately quarterly. When changing the water:
- Empty the tub fully using the drain kit
- Clean the aluminium interior with a soft cloth
- Clean cedar components with a bristle brush
- For a deeper surface clean, use the Tub Cleanser: spray onto surfaces, allow to soak for one to two minutes, wipe clean with a soft cloth, rinse thoroughly with a hose
- Refill using a hose filter attachment to remove contaminants from the incoming water supply
- Begin the balancing sequence from alkalinity through to bromine before soaking
Seasonal: tub surface care
The Tub Cleanser is a low-foam, plant-based surface cleanser formulated for use on natural materials including aluminium and cedar. Used at each quarterly water change or whenever the surfaces need refreshing, it removes scum, limescale, and staining without harsh chemicals or chlorine. It is safe on both the aluminium interior and the cedar exterior.
The (aroma)Therapist
For a spa-quality sensory experience, the (aroma)Therapist adds eucalyptus aromatherapy to the soak. Spray the surface of the water five times or more to reach the desired intensity before getting in. It adds nothing to the chemical load of the water and is designed to encourage slower, more deliberate breathing during the soak.
pH and calcium balancing
The pH Balancer and Calcium Balancer provide precision mineral adjustment when parameters drift. If pH drops below 7.4, dissolve four tablespoons of pH Balancer in a small amount of water, add directly to the tub with the pump running, circulate for several hours, and retest. For calcium hardness below 100 ppm, add two tablespoons of Calcium Balancer with the pump running, allow to circulate, and repeat until the reading sits within the 100 to 250 ppm range.
These are targeted correction tools, not routine additions. Well-maintained water rarely needs them frequently.
Caring for the materials
The aluminium interior
The marine-grade aluminium interior is non-porous and easy to clean. Avoid abrasive scrubbing pads or harsh chemical cleaners that could scratch or mark the surface. A soft cloth with mild soap handles routine cleaning. The Tub Cleanser is the right choice for a deeper refresh at water change time. Do not use bleach or chlorine-based products directly on the aluminium.
Maintaining hardness within the recommended range is the primary way to protect the aluminium surface over the long term. Water that is too soft is corrosive to aluminium. Keeping hardness at 100 ppm or above protects the interior and extends the life of the structure.
The cedar exterior
Canadian Western Red Cedar is naturally durable and requires minimal intervention. Clean exterior cedar surfaces with a bristle brush and rinse with fresh water. Avoid leaving the exterior in standing water or allowing soil or debris to accumulate against the base boards, as prolonged contact with damp organic material accelerates surface weathering.
Over time, the cedar will silver and grey. This is the natural ageing of the wood and does not indicate deterioration. It is part of the character of the material.
The firebox
Empty ash from the firebox every few fires using the ash scoop provided. A clean firebox burns more efficiently and reduces the accumulation of residue that can affect airflow over time.
Anodes (Electric and Hybrid models)
Electric and Hybrid AlumiTubs use three magnesium anodes to protect the metal components from galvanic corrosion. Replace the anodes twice annually, or when they reach approximately thirty percent of their original size. Checking them at each quarterly water change makes this easy to track.
Bather hygiene: the most underrated step
No water treatment programme can fully compensate for the organic load that enters the tub with each bather. Sunscreen, body oils, residue from laundry detergent on swimwear, and skin cells are among the main contributors to water that turns cloudy faster than it should.
The single most effective step an owner can take to extend water life is to shower before getting in. Rinsing off removes the majority of surface contaminants before they enter the water. This is not an arbitrary hygiene rule: it is the practice that most directly reduces the organic load the water has to manage between treatments.
- Shower or rinse off before entering the tub. Exfoliate if possible to remove dead skin cells
- Rinse feet before stepping in
- Avoid applying lotion, sunscreen, or oils before a soak
- Wash swimwear without heavy detergent, or rinse it thoroughly before use to remove detergent residue
- Keep food and drink away from the water
- Use a small net to skim insects and debris from the surface after each session
Water conservation and responsible draining
Water is a resource worth treating carefully, and the AlumiTub's design and water care approach are both built with this in mind.
Extending water life
The most effective water conservation practice is extending the time between full water changes. A consistent preventative maintenance routine, using the Good Clean Living system, keeps water in balance and reduces the organic load that drives deterioration. With regular maintenance, a quarterly water change cycle is achievable. Without it, water can become unmanageable in weeks.
Keeping the lid on when the tub is not in use reduces evaporation, slows chemical degradation, and keeps debris out of the water. All three extend the useful life of the fill.
For tubs with the electric filtration add-on or the Hybrid model, the filtration system handles ongoing water management automatically, extending the period between full changes further still.
Draining responsibly
Where the drained water goes matters.
- Untreated water, including freshwater fills and saltwater fills from a natural source, can be returned directly to the environment. Direct it to garden beds, compost areas, or back to its natural source
- Water treated with bromine or other chemicals must be neutralised before draining near plants, soil, or natural waterways. Allow chemical levels to fall to zero before draining, or use a neutralising agent to bring them down
- If using hydrogen peroxide, do not exceed 50 to 100 ppm, and allow the peroxide to fully dissipate before draining near sensitive environments
For properties with access to a natural water source, the cleanest loop available is to fill from the source, maintain the water through its cycle, and return it when done. The AlumiTub's saltwater compatibility and non-porous interior make this possible in a way that most conventional tubs cannot support.
Explore the Wood-Fired Hot Tub, the Electric and the Hybrid systems.
