Good Clean Living Water Care
A more considered approach to water care
Good Clean Living is a complete water care collection for any hot tub, designed to keep water clean rather than correct it once it isn’t. Everything in it works to reduce what your water needs, rather than adding more to it, in formulations that are plant-derived and mineral based to treat water, skin and the environment better.
Most hot tub water care is reactive. Good Clean Living works the other way around. Every step is chosen so the next one has less to do, which means your water never has to be rescued with harsh chemicals. Water that’s ready to soak in whenever you are, gentle on skin, and kind to the materials your tub is built from.
Better water going in, less correcting once it’s there, and far less to think about between soaks.
Six months of care in one box.
The Collection
Eight products, plant-derived and mineral based, formulated for all hot tubs, spas, soaking tubs and cold tubs.
The Purifier
Cleaner water in.A hose-mounted filter that removes chlorine, metals and sediment before they ever reach the tub. Everything downstream is easier because of it.
Activated carbon, kinetic degradation fluxion (KDF).The Stabilizer
Balanced and stabilized.A monthly plant-derived enzyme treatment that breaks down organic matter and holds water parameters steady, so clarity is maintained rather than restored.
Water, natural enzymes, plant-derived surfactant and fatty acids, glycerol. 8 fl oz (236 mL).The Balancer: pH
Clarity. Balance, without excess.A precision mineral blend that gently restores optimal pH, 7.4 to 7.8, supporting clarity, comfort and sanitizer efficiency. It works gradually and predictably rather than in corrections.
Sodium carbonate. 32 oz (907 g).The Balancer: Calcium
Structure. Stability, built into the water.A mineral hardness treatment that holds calcium near 250 ppm, so water stays stable, surfaces stay protected, and the soak feels soft and full rather than thin.
Calcium chloride. 32 oz (907 g).The Filter Cleanser
Restored, not replaced.A mineral-derived cleanser that lifts buildup and residue from the filter and returns it to full performance, without harsh additives.
Sodium carbonate, silicate, percarbonate and borate, zeolite, hydrated silica. 8 oz (226 g).The Filter Booster
Between deep cleans.Light conditioning that keeps the filter working properly in the weeks between soaks in the cleanser.
Baking soda, natural enzymes. 2 oz (56 g).The Tub Cleanser
The seasonal reset.A low-foam, plant-derived surface cleanser for the drain, clean and refill. Gentle on cedar and on aluminum.
Water, plant-derived surfactants and fatty acids, citric acid. 32 fl oz (946 mL).The (Aroma) Therapist
A sensory treatment that turns water into ritual.Eucalyptus oil releases a clean, grounding aroma encouraging stillness, breath, and a more intentional experience.
Eucalyptus oil. 4 fl oz (118 mL).Most Hot Tub Water Care Starts in the Wrong Place
It starts with the sanitizer, then adds more every time something goes wrong. Good Clean Living starts earlier, with what’s already in your water and what it actually needs.
Plant-derived enzymes break down organic buildup before it becomes a problem, so there’s less for the sanitizer to correct. Clean water in, stability maintained, balance checked, and only then a small amount of bromine as a safeguard rather than a primary treatment. Each step reduces what the next one has to work for.
It’s a quieter kind of maintenance. Less testing, less adjusting, less thinking about your water, and more time actually in it.
The Sequence
The science of better water
Balancing water first means sanitizer sits on top of water that’s already clean and stable, rather than compensating for water that isn’t. Plant-derived enzymes keep the organic load down between treatments, so there’s less for it to work on.
Water chemistry doesn’t have to feel like a lab experiment.
Start with cleaner water
Municipal water arrives chlorinated, and well water often arrives carrying iron, copper or manganese. Both matter more in a hot tub than in a bath, because the same water stays in place for months and everything in it concentrates as water evaporates.
The Purifier combines activated carbon with KDF, a copper and zinc alloy that converts free chlorine into harmless chloride through a redox reaction, and captures dissolved metals on the way past. It removes impurities before they enter your tub, supporting a cleaner, more balanced soak from the start.
The Purifier is used once per fill, and it comes first for a reason. Everything else in the box has less to do because of it.
Reduce the organic load
Most of what a sanitizer does is not disinfection. It’s consumption: body oils, sunscreen, lotion, sweat, hair product, pollen and leaf litter. That organic matter is what turns water cloudy, what raises a scum line, what causes foam, and it is the reason bromine seems to vanish two days after you added it.
Plant-derived enzymes break those compounds down into simpler ones the filter and the sanitizer can handle easily. Less organic load means less sanitizer demand, and less sanitizer demand is the entire point.
The Stabilizer is dosed monthly rather than when something goes wrong. That is the difference between maintaining clarity and having to restore it.
Balance in the right order
Alkalinity is the water’s capacity to hold a pH reading steady, its buffer. Correct pH while alkalinity sits below range and the correction will not hold, because there’s nothing to keep it there. Bring alkalinity into range first and pH very often settles on its own.
Calcium is the one most people skip, and it’s structural. Water low in calcium is not gentle water, it’s hungry water: it will draw minerals out of whatever it touches until it reaches equilibrium. Too much and it deposits scale instead. Held around 250 ppm, calcium keeps water stable, protects the tub, and changes how the water feels against skin, softer and fuller rather than thin.
Both Balancers are formulated to move water gradually rather than snap it into range, so a correction settles instead of overshooting and needing a second correction back.
Heat changes everything
A hot tub is different than a pool. At 104F (40C) every reaction runs faster: sanitizer is consumed more quickly, organic matter breaks down more readily, and agitated hot water releases carbon dioxide, which pushes pH upward on its own. This is why a routine borrowed from pool care tends to fail in a tub, and why a system designed for heat behaves more predictably.
Bromine holds up in hot water where chlorine doesn’t, and it does something chlorine can’t. When chlorine binds with nitrogen compounds from bather waste it forms chloramines, which are irritating, smell like a public pool, and no longer sanitize. When bromine binds, it forms bromamines, which remain active sanitizers. That’s the real reason spas run on bromine rather than chlorine.
Every product is formulated for water held at soaking temperature, not adapted from pool care. It is why an AlumiTub runs at 2 to 3 ppm of bromine where a conventional spa runs 3 to 5.
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Read more in the Water Care Academy →Since 2001
We’ve been building hot tubs since 2001. There are now more than 10,000 of them soaking in nine countries, at off-grid cabins, lake properties, countryside dwellings, ocean frontages and city gardens, in every climate and every kind of water.
Across all of it, one thing is universal. People want water that’s clean and ready when they are, gentle on skin, gentle on the ground around the tub, and kind to the thing they invested in. They want to use fewer chemicals and spend less doing it.
Nobody was making that. So we made it ourselves, formulated for water first and for the way people actually use a tub.
What good water feels like
Well-balanced water announces itself before any test strip does.
- It does not smell like a public pool, because there are no chloramines in it to smell.
- It does not sting eyes or leave skin tight and itchy after a soak.
- It will not bleach a swimsuit or dull a silver ring.
- It feels soft and slightly full against skin rather than thin, which is calcium doing its quiet structural work.
- It stays clear without being aggressively treated to get there.
The care itself
A small pleasure rather than a chore. Testing the water on a Sunday morning. Misting eucalyptus across the surface before you step in and watching the steam carry it. Closing the cover on water you know is clean. Eight bottles that look like something you would leave out on a shelf, rather than hide in a shed.
Like tending a garden, caring for your water becomes part of the ritual. Eucalyptus over chlorine. Ingredients you can read. Steps that feel like a ritual, not a lab.
The routine
| Test the water | 2 to 3 times a week in regular use |
| The Stabilizer | Monthly, one bottle after use |
| The Filter Booster | Monthly, into the filter canister |
| The Filter Cleanser | Every 2 weeks, soaked in a bucket |
| The Balancers | When a test says so |
| The Tub Cleanser | Every 3 to 4 months, with a water change |
| The (Aroma) Therapist | Whenever you like |
Before the first fill
Flush The Purifier for about a minute, until the water runs clear, then attach it to your hose and fill. Afterward, remove it and replace the caps. Do not let it dry out.
Balancing
Correct alkalinity first, then pH, then calcium hardness. Adjust gradually and retest. Always dissolve balancers in a bucket of tub water before they go in, one product at a time. Why alkalinity comes first.
Sanitizer
A small amount is still required. Use bromine at the level your tub specifies, which on an AlumiTub is 2 to 3 ppm and never above 3, lower than the 3 to 5 ppm typical of a conventional spa. Add in small amounts, circulate, retest. With proper balance, less is needed over time.
Habits that help
- Rinse off before getting in
- Circulate after adding any treatment
- Keep the tub covered when not in use
- The Filter Cleanser is used in a bucket, never in the tub, and is an irritant
Water changes
With consistent care, a tub with filtration holds water for 3 to 4 months between deep cleans. Heavier use and wood fired tubs may need more frequent changes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will it suit my tub
Will this work with a spa that isn’t an AlumiTub?
Yes. The collection is formulated for all hot tubs, spas, soaking tubs and cold tubs. Full instructions ship with it. If you do have an AlumiTub, follow your care manual where it differs, since marine-grade aluminum has a few specific requirements.
Does this work for Wood Fired tubs too?
Yes, the full collection applies to every AlumiTub. Wood Fired tubs used more occasionally will need less frequent treatment. Heavier or full-time use follows the same schedule as Electric and Hybrid.
How long does the collection last?
Six months of full-time use on an Electric or Hybrid tub. On a wood fired tub used occasionally it lasts considerably longer.
What isn’t in the box, and why?
Three things are intentionally sourced separately.
Bromine. Sanitizers require regulatory approval that cannot practically be held across both the United States and Canada, so bromine will not become a Good Clean Living product. Use spa bromine at 2 to 3 ppm on an AlumiTub.
Test strips. Widely available and inexpensive, and most owners already have a preferred brand. Buy strips that read total alkalinity, pH, calcium hardness and bromine.
An alkalinity increaser. Alkalinity is corrected first, before pH and calcium, but the product that raises it is plain sodium bicarbonate, which is baking soda. It costs a few dollars anywhere and we saw no reason to repackage it at a markup.
Good Clean Living does not replace proper sanitation. It creates the balanced water conditions that make ongoing care simpler, and that let you use meaningfully less sanitizer to keep water safe.
Sanitizer
Is bromine required?
Yes, a small amount is still necessary for safe water. But with proper balance maintained through this collection, meaningfully less is needed over time than with sanitizer-first approaches.
Think of it like a bath tub. You might clean it with a sanitizer, but you are not soaking in it.
Bromine or chlorine, and why bromine?
AlumiTubs are built for bromine, not chlorine. Bromine is gentler on marine-grade aluminum and cedar, more stable at higher temperatures, and better suited to a tub that is soaked in rather than swum in.
Why does my bromine seem to disappear quickly?
Bromine gets used up fighting organic contaminants your water should not have in the first place. Balance first, with The Purifier, The Stabilizer and pH and alkalinity balancing, and there is less organic load for your bromine to fight, so it lasts longer at the same 2 to 3 ppm level.
Can you over-sanitize?
Yes. Too much bromine can irritate skin and actually break down water stability rather than protect it. This collection is built around using less, more precisely, rather than more as a blanket fix.
Water chemistry
How do I balance water chemistry?
Create the conditions for water to stay clean and stable by balancing it from the start, rather than correcting it afterward. Consistent water care reduces water changes and keeps your hot tub ready to use.
There are four parameters, corrected in this order:
- Alkalinity stabilizes pH. Target 80 to 120 ppm
- pH controls acidity. Target 7.4 to 7.8
- Calcium hardness stabilizes the water and protects tub materials. Target 150 to 250 ppm
- Bromine sanitizes. Target 2 to 3 ppm
Test 2 to 3 times a week during regular use with test strips. Enter your readings and the Water Care Assistant will tell you what to correct, in what order, and what to do next.
What is the difference between alkalinity and pH?
pH tells you where the water currently sits on the acid to alkaline scale. Alkalinity is the water’s ability to hold that reading steady.
That is why alkalinity is corrected first. If it sits below range there is nothing buffering pH, so every small input swings it and the correction you just made will not hold. Get alkalinity into range and pH very often settles on its own.
How often should I test my water?
Two to three times a week with frequent use. Well-balanced water needs fewer corrections and stays more stable between tests.
Use the Water Care Assistant to set a schedule for your hot tub. Enter your test-strip readings and it will tell you what to correct, in what order, and what to do next, then build a maintenance schedule around your tub and your fill date.
How often should my hot tub water be changed?
With filtration and a consistent routine, every three to four months. Without filtration, water is usually changed around each period of use. An ocean fill is changed every five to seven days.
Change it sooner if it stays cloudy after balancing and a clean filter have had time to work, if foam keeps returning, or if treatments stop behaving predictably.
Free tool
Not sure where your water is?
Enter your test-strip readings and the Water Care Assistant tells you what to correct, in what order, and what to do next.
It also builds a care schedule around your tub and your fill date, and diagnoses cloudy, foamy, green or smelly water. Works for any hot tub.
Water is a finite resource. Good Clean Living treats it better from the start, so you use less of it.
Good Clean Living by AlumiTubs Water care for good clean living