The stove must never be lit unless the water level is at least 2" above the weld connecting the chimney collar to the stove body. Firing the stove with inadequate water can cause physical damage to the firebox, chimney and firebox fence, and poses a real safety hazard. This can't happen if the water level is sufficient, so please follow the manual instructions carefully and ensure everyone with access to your tub does the same before every fire, especially after refilling or draining. Newer models are built with a fill-line marking and a QR code on the firebox lid — whereas older tubs must note the 2" measurement directly rather than relying on a visual marker. With proper water level maintained, the firebox is built to last 15+ years.

Welding can be attempted, but replacement is the more reliable fix. Pinhole leaks are usually caused by firing the firebox with insufficient water, or by rainwater mixing with ashes inside it. Prevent this by keeping the storage cover on whenever the tub won't be used for an extended stretch.

Likely condensation, or a chimney cap that isn't intact or properly seated — check that first.

This can happen with certain wood types or from incomplete combustion. A professional chimney sweep can clear it; no special precautions are needed beyond protecting the aluminum from abrasive tools.

Check that the black collar is fully tightened and that the O-ring is present and seated correctly.

This is usually a mismatched hose fitting rather than a tub defect — a 40mm-to-1½" conversion adapter kit resolves the common case.

This typically points to a fault at the heater connection or moisture getting into the electrical components — not an issue with your home's wiring, especially if the tub is on its own dedicated breaker. Don't run additional heating cycles unattended until it's been looked at — email hi@alumitubs.com or text 604-885-0646 for support.

If you're seeing this pattern — the system powers on and starts priming normally, the pump runs and the heater engages, but after a few seconds to a minute circulation stops and the heater shuts off, the system re-enters a purge cycle or shows a flow/heater error, the displayed temperature jumps by a few degrees without the water actually changing temperature, and/or the jets start and stop inconsistently — and you've already confirmed the water level, both black equipment valves are open, bled the filter canister, tried a new filter, and power-cycled at the breaker, this usually points to a relay in the control board rather than trapped air. Reach out to hi@alumitubs.com — a replacement board is a straightforward swap.

First, bleed the air out of the filter canister with the power off: open the air release until water flows out steadily, then close it and power the unit back on. If the short-cycling continues after that, it likely points to the control board and is worth a support email to hi@alumitubs.com.

This triggers if wood heat pushes the water temperature above 106°F on a Hybrid unit. Power the system off (or set to HOLD), then power it back on.

Download the ControlMySpa app (iOS or Android), open Setup, confirm Bluetooth is on, and stand within about 10 feet of your tub with it powered on. The app will detect your WiFi module via Bluetooth — confirm the serial number shown matches the one printed on the back of the module, then enter your CMS code (provided with your tub) to finish setup.

First, double-check that the serial number on the WiFi module matches what's shown in the app during setup — a mismatch is the most common cause. You can also read the module's status light for a quick diagnosis:

• Solid red — not connected to the tub's system at all.
• Blinking red — connected to your home network, but not talking to the tub's control board.
• Blinking green — connected to the tub, but no internet connection (check your home router).
• Solid green — everything's working.

If the serial numbers don't match, or the light suggests the module itself isn't communicating, email hi@alumitubs.com for a replacement.

The ballast has its own status light. Solid green means it's powered and running normally — this should always be lit whenever the system has power. Solid red means the UV-C lamp itself is actively on. If you're not seeing green at all, it's a power or connection issue rather than a bulb problem.

Clean the quartz tube every 6 months.

This applies to seam sealant. Clean the area with lacquer thinner or acetone, remove the old sealant with a putty knife, and reapply SikaFlex. 3M 4200 is a compatible alternative. Note: this seam sealant is a separate product from the clear coating on the aluminum interior — use the right process for the right surface (see below).

This may indicate panel separation — please contact us directly at hi@alumitubs.com rather than attempting a DIY fix.

Check the drain kit connection first and reseal at the base outlet if needed — most post-move leaks trace back to the drain fitting needing to be re-threaded after the tub was dismantled and rebuilt on a new platform.

Marine-grade aluminum can develop surface changes from electrochemical reactions combined with imbalanced water chemistry or hard/soft water extremes — this is cosmetic, not structural.

• Tubs built after June 2026 have a protective coating rated to 350°F and are safe with all approved treatment methods.
• For tubs built before June 2026: restore the surface by removing deposits with a plastic spatula or lightly sanding to bare aluminum. Contact hi@alumitubs.com for support with water chemistry, electrochemical balancing, and information on applying a protective coating to prevent recurrence.

This is a different process from seam sealant, above:

1. Clean the area — wash with a high-volume hose and mild pH-neutral soap, or Nyalic Right Rinse. Don't use a pressure washer, shop air, or solvent cleaners, as these can damage the coating. Let it dry completely.
2. Inspect for chips, scratches, or rust beneath the clear coat.
3. Spray a thin layer of Nyalic aerosol over the damaged area — it self-levels and blends with the existing coating.
4. Let it air-dry fully. Avoid moisture or temperatures below 55°F (12.8°C) for at least 48 hours, and don't return the tub to service for 2 weeks to allow a full cure.

Use Thompson's Water Seal (clear wood sealer) — this is best applied before installation so all sides of the cedar can be coated evenly.